Nichol and Matt go to Chile!

Archive for santiago tour

To finish a tour.

And we’re back.

Our apologies for keeping anyone hanging, but yesterday we had our first Santiago brunch since leaving Victoria at Cafe Melba, in the well-to-do district of Las Condes. Breakfast isn’t big here, so a proper Western breakfast was much appreciated. This excellent brunch (for the record: a Benny on French bread? It rocks.) was followed by a pleasant stroll through yet another park and some time watching an aviary with about 30 of the seemingly happiest budgies, parrots, lovebirds and cockatiels that we’ve ever seen. We then returned home on the Metro to ‘suffer’ a long-awaited brunch coma. While our apology is heartfelt, we don’t feel too bad. 😉

Before moving on to today’s adventure in Chilean bureaucracy, we feel it necessary to briefly finish the end of last week’s tour.

We left off during the tour’s break at a quaint little cafe at the foot of Cerro Santa Lucia (which we incorrectly called ‘San Lucia’ in the previous post). After some water and an underwhelming croissant, the tour moved on towards (what?! Another park?) Parque Forestal. Winding through some very Europeanesque side-streets, we were taken to a funky ice cream shop called ‘Emporio La Rosa’. As indicated by the line flowing out the wide-open double doors, and the smiling faces crowding the patio, this place is among the better known of Santiago’s ice-cream shops, of which there are many! Unfortunately the line prevented the tour from including some sampling, but apparently the trademark of this ice cream emporium is some of the most exotic flavours that one can imagine. While stopping short of suggesting some of the more bizarre flavours such as cheesburger or fish, the guide was fairly adamant that ordering something as banal as ‘vanilla’ is a wasted visit.

Crossing one more street brought us to Emporio La Rosa’s adopted overflow patio, Parque Forestal. Strangely enough, our first stop was in front of a large bust of Honest Abe Lincoln himself, placed so because the building nearby used to be the American embassy. Corralled by two main avenues, the park is long and narrow, culminating with ‘La Fuente Alamana’, a large bronze statue of a ship representing early German immigration to the country and gifted by Germany in honour of Chile’s centennial. Chile recently celebrated their 200th anniversary and speculation regarding what Germany would give this time was reportedly rampant throughout the city; sadly, they didn’t get anything.

Meandering across the ‘mighty’ (and muddy) Rio Mapocho, we next entered the last neighbourhood of the day, Bellavista. This district is known to be a very student-centric area, evidenced by the many eating and drinking (if we had a peso for every Heineken sign hanging…) establishments that line the sidewalks. This will definitely be a location for us to return to as the choice of international cuisine seems endless. One place in particular sounds fantastic, as we are assured that it serves some of the most authentic Patagonian cuisine in the city. Also, we’ve been promised a free Pisco Sour if we drop the tour guide’s name. Winding our way up a quiet, cobblestone street we finished the tour outside the former house of famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. His house has been converted into a small museum, which features many of the nautically themed objects that he obsessively collected. It is said that he loved the sea, but was afraid of sailing, and so as any neurotic artist would do, lived vicariously through his collectibles. We’ll return to the museum at some point during our stay and will be sure to add some further details afterwards. At the end of the tour, the time came to pay for the tour in the form of whatever tip we feel was warranted, we gave a well deserved 15,000 CLP (~$30 CAD). If anyone reading is interested in doing this tour, more info can be found at; we highly recommend it!

Switching gears a little, we spent today in a blisteringly hot and confusing haze of Chilean bureaucracy (registering our visas with the police and attempting to obtain RUTs). Unfortunately, and despite our best efforts we were unable to obtain our RUTs (necessary to register for school, get a bank account, etc.), but we’ll be making another attempt first thing tomorrow morning. We can’t express how grateful we are to Matt’s supervisor for burning his entire day helping us with this venture; without his help it would have been near impossible. After all is said and done we’ll wrap the whole experience up in another post, and may even start a whole new page with helpful tips for those looking to come to Chile for an extended stay. You’ll need it.

On a lighter note, we finally snapped a picture of one of our neighbourhood pooches, which we are coming to love. You’ll find Blacky being fed a treat by a local Santaguina in the Pictures section. Chuck and Willie haven’t presented their photogenic sides yet, although we did pass by a napping Chuck on the way to the Metro this morning.

Until next time!


Urban nuts & urban mutts.

Feliz cumpleanos Padre!

Today was a pretty big day, and not only because of Matt’s Dad’s birthday. Today we finally visited the San Joaquin campus of Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile (PUC), where Matt will be doing his studies. The trip there is quite easy, with one transfer on the metro and a total of about 25 minutes one-way from our apartment in Providencia. We met with Thomas, Matt’s supervisor (who by sheer chance, lives a 30 second walk around the corner from our building) and rode with him to the campus to get our personal tour. The campus itself appears to be slightly smaller than UVic, but PUC as a whole has several campuses spread throughout the city, making it among the largest universities (if not the biggest) in Chile. Thomas took us around the astrophysics building, introducing us to what seemed like the whole department and made sure to acquaint us with the particularly nice espresso machine to which the department is always free to use :D.

It seems that the campus is in a bit of a transitional phase, as new buildings are under construction/renovation everywhere. Three of the places that Thomas tried to take us for lunch were…gone, even though just a month ago he says they were there! We were strangely comfortable with that though, as we instead enjoyed ‘Italianos’ from one of the other eateries. Italianos are probably not what you think. Picture an 8 inch hotdog in a steamed bun, slathered with avocado, fresh salsa and a drizzle of what looked suspiciously like nacho cheese sauce (here’s to your birthday, Dad!). Oddly enough, they were wonderful! More on the university will be said after classes begin, but for now we can’t go without mentioning yesterday’s tour.

Yesterday started with our introduction to the metro. We scanned our Bip! cards in the machine and lunged boldly into the turnstile…that didn’t turn. Another scan: still no turn. It was after the third attempt that a kindly gentlemen indicated that we had to go through the turnstile to the left of the scanner, not the right. We’re not sure if he told us to be friendly or whether he just wanted to catch his damned train, but he was polite about it so we were appreciative. The rest of the metro trip was smooth, and we successfully arrived at la Plaza del Armas. We were not prepared for the throng of humanity that awaited us there! It is truly incredible how many people were milling around, especially since this was mid-afternoon on a weekday. A pedestrian street flows down towards the presidential palace, lined with department stores, cafes, and countless merchant kiosks selling everything from bottled water to tourist trinkets to cell phones to scarfs for your dogs. Speaking of dogs, urban mutts are everywhere here, but they are all amazingly tame. Rather than being the stray dogs that we had them pegged for, it turns out that Chilenos love these lovely perros and have no desire for them to go. The local public, as a city-wide community, feeds them, pays for their vaccinations, and our favourite, even donates the old doggie-clothing retired by their own pooches to the local homeless hounds. It’s nice to know that our local Blacky (black lab cross), Willie (black lab with shorter hair) and Chuck (a brown, uh…dog) are being well taken care of :). We’re still awaiting an opportunity to snap a photo of them, but we promise to post some when we can.

We began our tour in front of the rebuilt Catedral Metropolitano (see the pictures) in a group of about 30-40 people; mostly English speaking, but from all over the world. The tour itself is fourth on the list of Tripadvisors things-to-do in Santiago, and is only funded through tips (about $10 CAD, but worth much more). It is conducted completely on foot and runs about four hours with a short break in the middle. Starting in Plaza del Armas, we got a brief and really fascinating history of Chile, followed by a walk down the aforementioned pedestrian avenue. With the mass of people, it was tricky to keep track of our lone, red-shirt clad tour guide, but it seemed to add to the real hustle-bustle feel of the area. Stopping every so often, we learned of the origins of ‘coffee with legs’, both old (attractive ladies in short skirts serving coffee…no really, just coffee. Seriously!) and new (basically a strip club…serving just coffee). The ‘new coffee with legs’ has blacked out windows and, not surprisingly, both the clients and employees get a little annoyed at tourists taking pictures.

Continuing down a few more side streets, we arrived at the Presidential Palace which was accompanied by a small education of Chile’s more modern history (for which we can’t do justice here, but we highly suggest googling Sept. 11, 1973). On that day, under the command of General Pinochet, two jet planes bombed and destroyed the entire left side of the palace while tanks blocked the exits, allowing the dictator to assume power until 1990. The history is fresh enough that it is still a very sensitive topic to the locals, but the tour guide indicated that the healing process has begun. Indeed, the Museum of Memory and Human Rights (Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos) was inaugurated in 2010 to commemorate and tell the stories of many of the victims of Pinochet’s regime.

After the Presidential Palace, we were led towards the business district of the city. Here we stopped for roasted peanuts at the ‘Nuts 4 Nuts’ stand kitty-corner to Chile’s version of Wall Street. The history of ‘Nuts 4 Nuts’ is a story in and of itself, but suffice it to say that the down-to-earth millionaire owner is still known to personally man a peanut stand himself on occasion. Of course, this is only when he’s not running the business from New York, where the franchise took off after a failed attempt at selling honey-roasted peanuts in Santiago. Interestingly, a copy-cat business, with suspiciously similar colours, has popped up around the city under the ‘Nuts 5 Nuts’ umbrellas.

We then descended into a much quieter neighborhood, known as Barrio Lastarria, where we walked by a man-made hill named Cerro San Lucia. According to our tour guide, in the 1800s this former rock pile represented the edge of Santiago and was basically the place where the Santaguinos threw their refuse and buried their dead (on separate sides of the hill, of course). At some point, the city officials desired Santiago to become the Paris of South America, and commissioned free labour (in the form of prisoners) to add more rocks to the pile and beautify it to create the park that we see today. Time did not permit us to walk up the hill, but we hope to explore it in the coming weeks. After a brief interlude at a local cafe, off we went for the last part of the tour which, seeing as this post is getting rather long, we will have to describe next time. It may or may not include such ice cream flavours as fish and cheeseburger. Mmmm?